Butora Gomi review

Butora Gomi review

Butora Gomi is a comp style bouldering and sport climbing shoe from the South Korean company. Butora climbing shoes are getting more and more common in climbing gyms and crags around the world. The shoes have soft and sticky rubber and they are designed for indoor climbing and competition climbing. The Gomi climbing shoes work great for both overhanging routes as well as slabs. The main idea in the shoes is to have them be both soft and hard at the same time with their special rubber sole.

In the US the Butora Gomis are available in two different fits and they can be identified by the climbing shoes color:

  • Seagrass (wide fit)
  • Pink (Narrow fit)

What to consider before buying the butora gomi climbing shoes?

What kind of climbing do you do?

If you are a boulderer or a sport climber these shoes should be a great choise for you! If you are a trad climber we would recommend choosing another pair, maybe La Sportiva TC Pros which were our top pick for best trad climbing shoes or for a bit cheaper option the Butora Alturas.

The type of your feet: The Gomis are available for both wider or narrower feet. Make sure you choose the right type for your feet. 

If you have narrow feet:  Choose the tight fit which is the pink shoe.

If you have wide feet: Go with the seagrass (blue/grey color) shoe that is wider. 

If you don’t know if your feet are narrow or wide? Usually people with higher arches have more narrow feet and people with lower arches have wider feet. 

Sizing: when choosing the right size for you, take a half size from your typical street shoe size for bouldering.  The Butora Gomi shoes should only stretch about one quarter size after some use. 

Butora Gomi- specifications, pros and cons

 

  • Weight: 454 grams / 16.0 oz
  • Rubber midsole
  • Very large toe rubber area for toe hooking
  • Materials: Neo fuse sticky rubber (4mm outsole)
  • 3D-molded cup for the heel
  • One velcro closure
  • Available in narrow and wide size

Pros:

  • A good value choice
  •  works for both slab and overhanging routes
  • designed for modern comp style climbing
  • Sticky rubber and softer mid sole for smearing
  • Great climbing gym shoe
Cons:
  • Breathability: Can get really hot especially when used in the sun, because of all the rubber
  • Not the most sensitive shoes
  • Not the best for small edges and nubbins
  • Not great for cracks

The differences between: Butora Gomi vs Butora Acro

Butora Gomi

  • Rubber sole makes the shoe softer for easier smearing
  • Does not have a pointed tip for precision placement
  • Heel fit is not as rounded

Butora Acro

  • Stiffer shoe
  • Does have a pointed tip “love bumb” at the tip of the shoe
  • Sizing is close to street size

Butora Gomi reviews and takeaways from other sites:

Amazon: 4,6/5 at with 14 reviews. 

      • The ratings are currently quite divided between either 1 or 5 stars.
      • The shoes are great for a really wide foot (wide version)
      • Super comfortable
      • Shoes feel heavy because of all the rubber

Outdoorgearhub 67/100

        • Comfortable
        • High performance
        • Great for climbing steep routes 
        • “lacks versatility” 

Butora Gomi sizing

Butora aims for their shoes to be the same size as your street size. Of course this is not always the case depending on your personal preferences as well. If you are familiar with other performance shoes like Butora Acro or Butora Narsha, they recommend going up half a size with Gomi.

Alternatives for the Butora Gomi climbing shoes

Before committing to the Butora Gomi climbing shoes take a look at our review of the best climbing shoes  article. In the article we recommend these shoes:

If you climb overhanging sport or boulder routes or competition style routes then Butora Gomis are a great and affordable option!

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