Edelrid OHM review

Edelrid Ohm review

The Edelrid Ohm Climbing Device is a nice piece of equipment designed to enhance safety and improve the climbing experience for both climbers and belayers. Developed by Edelrid, the Ohm device addresses the challenge of weight disparity between climbing partners. In this review, we’ll delve into the features, performance, and overall benefits of the Edelrid Ohm.

Specs and featurs of the OHM

  • The Ohm significantly reduces the risk of a possible ground fall should a lead climber fall at the first bolt.
  • Belaying a lead climber with the Ohm does not affect rope handling or cause additional friction when paying out rope.
  • The recommended weight difference between the lead climber and the belayer is between 10 to 40 kg (22 to 88 lbs).
  • The belayer requires significantly less hand braking force to arrest a fall.
  • Lowering a heavier climber is much easier to control with the Ohm.
  • The Ohm is attached at the first bolt on the route.
  • The Ohm is compatible with single ropes ranging from 8.9 to 11.0 mm in diameter.
  • The belayer should have a minimum weight of 40 kg (88 lbs).

What we like about the Ohm

 

  • Increased safety: The Ohm helps prevent the belayer from being lifted off the ground or pulled into the wall when catching a fall from a heavier climber.

     

  • Balanced climbing experience: It allows climbers of different weights to climb together comfortably and safely, without compromising their experience.

     

  • Smooth and controlled falls: The assisted-braking mechanism minimizes rope slippage and provides better control over the tension during a fall.

     

  • User-friendly: Easy to attach to the first bolt and compatible with most single ropes.
  • Durable construction: The stainless steel build ensures a long climbing career and many safer falls with this device.

What we don’t like about the Ohm

 

  • Additional weight: The Ohm adds some weight to your climbing gear, which might be a consideration for those aiming for ultralight setups.
  • Initial investment: The device costs more than a good belay device (which you also need) which might be a factor for beginner climbers on a tight budget. 
  • Sharper falls: The problem with falling on an Ohm for the climber can be that the whipper will be shorter and therefore it can be more impactful  on the climbers ankles. 

The Ohm climbing device boasts a sleek and compact design, making it easy to carry and integrate into your climbing gear. It features a durable stainless steel construction, ensuring longevity and reliability even in demanding climbing scenarios. The device attaches to the first bolt of the route and acts as an assisted-braking system, minimizing the risk of a heavy climber taking a large fall and potentially injuring the belayer.

 

Performance:

One of the standout features of the Edelrid Ohm is its ability to control rope slippage effectively. By increasing the friction during a fall, it helps the belayer to not get pulled to the wall and also helps prevent the rope from slipping through the belayer’s hands. This feature is particularly crucial when the climber is heavier than the belayer.

 

The Ohm’s assisted-braking mechanism functions smoothly, providing an added layer of safety and reducing the risk of accidents caused by a sudden jerk on the rope. Climbers using the Ohm can confidently focus on their ascent, knowing that their belayer has greater control over the rope tension and can effectively arrest a fall.

 

User-Friendliness:

The Ohm is straightforward to use and requires no additional training for the belayers. For the climber its necessary to learn the correct way to use it. When leading I usually tie in to the rope and thread the rope through the harness even before starting on the route. When I get to the first bolt I just insert the Ohm with the rope already threaded. 

When several lead climbers are climbing the same route you can have the ohm already clipped. It easily attaches to the first bolt on the route, and the climber simply clips the rope through it. The device doesn’t really interfere with the climbing process, but its a bit more of a hassle to clip when compared to a regular quickdraw. 

 

Benefits:

The Edelrid Ohm offers several key benefits for climbers and belayers alike. Firstly, it significantly reduces the chance of a belayer being lifted off the ground or pulled into the wall when catching a fall from a heavier climber. This feature promotes trust and enhances the overall safety of the climbing partnership.

 

Secondly, the Ohm encourages climbers of different weights to climb together more comfortably. It eliminates the need for finding an exact weight match and allows climbers with significant weight differences to enjoy climbing routes together without compromising safety. Especially when climbing outside its a great way to assist a lighter belayer.

 

Conclusions on the Edelrid Ohm:

The Edelrid Ohm Climbing Device is a game-changer in the climbing community, addressing the weight disparity challenges in a smart and effective manner. With its robust design, smooth performance, and user-friendly nature, the Ohm elevates the climbing experience for both climbers and belayers. By offering enhanced control, added safety, and compatibility with various rope types, the Edelrid Ohm is a must-have device for climbers seeking a safer and more inclusive climbing environment.

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