Emil Abrahamssons no hangs hangboarding routine review

Emil Abrahamssons No-Hang hangboarding routine review

In this article, you will learn about Emil Abrahamsson, a renowned climber who has developed a unique and effective routine known as the No-Hang method. With years of experience in the field, Emil has become a trusted authority in the world of climbing , sharing his expertise and guiding athletes towards greater strength and performance with his famous youtube channel. Discover how Emil’s innovative approach to training can help you improve your climbing abilities and develop a stronger grip without putting excessive strain on your tendons and ligaments. Get ready to elevate your climbing game with Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang hangboarding routine.

How to do the routine:

  1. Duration and Frequency: Perform the routine twice a day for 30 days. Each session lasts approximately 10 minutes.

  2. Hangs and Rest: Do 10 seconds on, followed by 50 seconds rest for each hang.

  3. Exercises:

    • Four finger crimp on 14mm edge, 3 sets (70-80% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground).
    • Three finger-drag in deep pocket, 3 sets (70-80% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground).
    • Middle two finger-pocket, 1 set (50-60% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground).
    • Front two finger-pocket, 1 set (50-60% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground).
    • Middle two finger-crimp, 1 set (stretch pinkies during rest) (30-40% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground).
    • Front two finger-crimp, 1 set (stretch pinkies during rest) (30-40% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground).

Emil Abrahamsson’s routine is designed to increase finger strength through consistent, low-intensity exercises that focus on tendon health and gradual improvement.

Why should I do the no-hangs routine?

Emil Abrahamsson made to his max hangs after following his no-hang hangboarding routine for one month:

Grip Type Previous Max Hang After One Month Improvement
14mm Crimp 3 seconds at BW + 48 kg 5.8 seconds at BW + 67 kg +2.8 seconds, +19 kg
One-arm Hang (Right) 23mm 0.5 seconds 14 seconds +13.5 seconds
One-arm Hang (Left) 23mm 0.5 seconds 7.0 seconds +6.5 seconds
6mm Crimp 0 seconds 7.5 seconds New ability
8mm Crimp 11 seconds 27 seconds +16 seconds
 10mm Crimp  23 seconds  Too long to try 😀  

These results show significant improvements in Emil’s finger strength and endurance across various grip types and edge sizes. Notably, his one-arm hang times increased dramatically, and he gained the ability to hang on the 6mm crimp, which he couldn’t do before. Additionally, there was a substantial increase in the weight he could handle on the 14mm crimp.

These results demonstrate significant improvements in Emil’s finger strength and endurance, particularly on very small edges. The ability to hang on a 6mm crimp for 7.5 seconds, a hold he was previously unable to use, is a notable improvement for an elite level climber.

Who is Emil Abrahamsson

Emil Abrahamsson is a renowned professional climber and coach who has made significant contributions to the world of rock climbing. With years of experience and expertise, he has become an inspiration for many climbers worldwide. His passion for the sport and dedication to improving performance have led to numerous achievements and recognition. His brother Felix is also a climber and is the one who actually brought this routine to Emil. 

Background and expertise

Emil Abrahamsson was born in Sweden and discovered his love for climbing at a young age. He quickly realized that this was his true calling and decided to pursue it wholeheartedly. Through rigorous training and perseverance, Emil developed exceptional skills and reached the pinnacle of success in the climbing community.

Achievements and recognition

Emil Abrahamsson has an impressive track record of accomplishments in the climbing world. He has successfully conquered some of the most challenging routes and boulders worldwide, leaving a lasting impact on the climbing community. His dedication to the sport and unwavering commitment to excellence have earned him immense respect and recognition.

Emil’s achievements include multiple podium finishes in international competitions, as well as numerous ascents of difficult routes. Emil has climbed routes like The Story of Two Worlds 8C and Power of Now 8B+. His exceptional performance and groundbreaking approach to training have earned him a place among the climbing elite.

Introduction to Hangboarding

Definition and purpose

Hangboarding, also known as fingerboard training, is a specific form of strength training designed to improve finger and grip strength in climbers. The practice involves suspending the body weight from a hangboard using only the fingertips, progressively challenging the fingers and forearms.

The primary purpose of hangboarding is to develop the finger and grip strength necessary for climbing. By targeting these specific muscle groups, climbers can enhance their ability to hold onto small holds, make precise movements, and reduce the risk of injury.

Benefits and goals

The benefits of hangboarding extend beyond just improving finger strength as you are hanging with the arms and shoulders also engaged. With regular practice, climbers can expect to see improvements in forearm endurance, shoulder and grip strength, and overall climbing performance. The goals of hangboarding include increasing finger strength, developing mental resilience, and preventing overuse injuries. I personally found that the biggest aspect to improve my hangboarding was simply to TRY REALLY HARD! Sounds dumb, but for max hangs its helpful to go all out. 

Hangboarding is a versatile training method that can be tailored to fit individual needs and goals. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced climber, incorporating hangboarding into your training routine can bring about significant improvements in your climbing abilities.

Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine

Explanation and concept

Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine is a methodology that focuses on training finger strength without actually hanging from a hangboard. The concept behind this approach is to isolate and strengthen the finger flexors and extensors while minimizing the strain on the pulleys and tendons.

By eliminating the traditional hanging aspect of hangboarding, Abrahamsson’s routine provides a safer and more controlled environment for targeted finger strength development. It is particularly beneficial for climbers who have experienced finger injuries or want to prevent them in the first place. I have noticed that doing the no-hangs training (semi unregularily) has been helpful at making my fingers more resilient to the strain from pulling on mono or two finger pockets. I have therefore recommended this routine to intermediate climbers who havent been climbing that long. This is in order to help prevent injuries in their fingers as they are strong and eager to improve, but their tendon’s in their fingers are not ready for it. 

Key principles

The key principles of Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine revolve around 60-80% bodyweight, proper form, and rest and recovery.

Proper form is crucial to ensure the exercises are performed correctly and effectively. This includes maintaining a straight body position, engaging the shoulders and back muscles as well as the core, and using controlled movements throughout.

Rest and recovery play a vital role in allowing the body to adapt and grow stronger. Adequate rest periods between training sessions, as well as active recovery techniques, are crucial for the success of the routine. The recommended rest before other training and this routine is minimum 6h, so if you go climbing in the evening its better skip the no-hangs that evening. 

Expected outcomes

By following Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine, climbers can expect to notice a significant improvement in their finger strength, tendon health and overall climbing performance. The routine targets specific finger muscles, promoting better finger recruitment and increasing the ability to grip smaller holds with greater precision.

Additionally, the routine helps to enhance forearm endurance, which is essential for sustained climbing sessions. With regular practice, climbers may also experience improved grip strength, reduced risk of injury, and increased mental resilience.

Understanding the Routine

Equipment and setup

To execute Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine, you will need a fingerboard or hangboard specifically designed for the routine. These boards typically have finger pockets or edges that allow you to perform the exercises effectively.

The setup of the routine involves securing the fingerboard to a sturdy wall or frame at an appropriate height, ensuring it is secure and stable. It is crucial to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper installation and use of the equipment.

Warm-up exercises

Before diving into the routine, it is essential to perform a comprehensive warm-up to prepare the muscles and joints for the intense training ahead. Warm-up exercises may include wrist and forearm stretches, finger flexor stretches, and light cardiovascular activities to increase blood flow.

The warm-up phase is essential to reduce the risk of injury and enhance the effectiveness of the routine. Taking the time to properly warm up will allow you to perform at your best and maximize the benefits of the exercises even though its not a maximal exercise.

Execution and progression

Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine consists of a series of finger exercises performed on the fingerboard. The exercises typically target different finger positions and hand orientations to develop strength and dexterity in various climbing situations.

It is essential to start with a comfortable intensity and gradually increase the difficulty level as you progress. The routine provides clear guidelines on how to progress to higher challenges, allowing you to continuously improve your finger strength and climbing performance.

Benefits of No-Hang Hangboarding Routine

Improved finger strength

One of the primary benefits of Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine is improved finger strength. By isolating and targeting the finger flexors and extensors, climbers can develop stronger fingers, allowing them to hold onto small holds and perform challenging moves with greater ease.

Increased forearm endurance

In addition to finger strength, the routine also focuses on developing forearm endurance. Climbing often requires prolonged gripping, which can quickly fatigue the forearms. By incorporating the No-Hang Hangboarding Routine, climbers can increase their forearm endurance, allowing them to climb for longer periods without fatigue.

Enhanced grip strength

A strong grip is fundamental in climbing, and Emil Abrahamsson’s routine helps develop grip strength effectively. By training the finger flexors and extensors, climbers can improve their ability to grip holds tightly, reducing the risk of slipping and increasing overall confidence on the wall.

Reduced risk of injury

Properly executed, the No-Hang Hangboarding Routine can significantly reduce the risk of finger and hand injuries. By targeting the finger muscles and tendons in a controlled manner, climbers can strengthen these areas, making them more resistant to strains and sprains. Additionally, the routine promotes better finger recruitment and reduces the likelihood of overuse injuries.

Potential Drawbacks

Overtraining risks

It is important to be mindful of overtraining when incorporating a rigorous routine like Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine. Overtraining can lead to decreased performance, increased risk of injury, and overall burnout.

To prevent overtraining, it is crucial to listen to your body and give yourself enough rest and recovery time between training sessions. Additionally, incorporating variety into your training program and avoiding excessive intensity or volume can help mitigate the risks of overtraining.

Muscle imbalances

Another potential drawback of the routine is the risk of muscle imbalances. Focusing solely on finger strength without addressing other muscle groups can lead to imbalances in the body, which may impact overall climbing performance and increase the risk of injury.

To avoid muscle imbalances, it is important to incorporate a well-rounded training program that includes exercises targeting other muscle groups, such as the core, shoulders, and legs. This will promote balanced muscle development and ensure overall strength and stability.

Monitoring progress

While Emil Abrahamsson’s routine can lead to significant improvements in climbing performance, progress may not always be linear or immediate. It is important to keep track of your training sessions and monitor your progress over time.

By recording the intensity, duration, and difficulty of each session, climbers can identify trends and adjust their training accordingly. This will allow for continuous improvement and help prevent stagnation or plateaus in performance.

The way to do this is to simply test your max hangs before and doing the routine for 30 days. Many people do this with several 

Tips for Effective No-Hang Hangboarding

Proper technique and form

To maximize the benefits of Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine, it is crucial to prioritize proper technique and form. Engage the shoulders and core, maintain a straight body position, and use the appropriate grip types.

Focus on controlled and deliberate movements, and avoid using momentum to complete the exercises. By performing the exercises with correct form, you will target the intended muscle groups and minimize the risk of injury.

Rest and recovery

Rest and recovery play a vital role in any training program, including the No-Hang Hangboarding Routine. Adequate rest periods between training sessions allow the body to repair and rebuild, leading to increased strength and performance gains.

Listen to your body and give yourself sufficient rest days to avoid overworking the muscles and tendons. Active recovery techniques, such as foam rolling and gentle stretching, can also aid in the recovery process.

Integration with other training

Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine should be seen as a complementary component to a well-rounded climbing training program. While it can significantly improve finger strength, it is important to incorporate other training modalities, such as climbing-specific exercises, strength training, and flexibility work.

By integrating the No-Hang Hangboarding Routine with other training methods, climbers can develop a holistic approach to their training, targeting multiple areas of performance and ensuring well-rounded progress.

Personal Experiences and Reviews

Testimonials from climbers

Climbers who have incorporated Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine into their training programs have reported significant improvements in their climbing abilities and finger health. Many climbers have experienced noticeable gains in finger strength and grip, allowing them to tackle more demanding routes and boulders.

The routine has also been praised for its focus on injury prevention and overall safety. Climbers who have previously struggled with finger pain or injuries have found that the routine allows them to continue training while minimizing the risk of re-injury.

Comparison with traditional hangboarding

Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine differs from traditional hangboarding methods in that it eliminates the actual hanging aspect. This modification makes it more accessible to climbers of all levels and reduces the risk of damaging the tendons and pulleys in the fingers.

While traditional hangboarding has its merits and can be beneficial for some climbers, Abrahamsson’s routine provides a safer and more controlled approach that focuses specifically on finger strength development. It offers an alternative for climbers looking for a targeted and effective training method without the associated risks.

Long-term impact

When practiced consistently and with proper technique, Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine can have a significant long-term impact on climbing performance. The routine targets specific muscle groups, leading to improved finger strength, enhanced grip, and reduced risk of injury.

Many climbers have reported continued progress and improvement in their climbing abilities over time. By incorporating the routine into their training regimen, climbers can continue to see positive results and performance gains throughout their climbing journey.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can beginners use this routine?

Yes, beginners can incorporate Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine into their training. It is important for beginners to start with lower intensity exercises and gradually progress to more challenging variations as they build strength and technique. This routine is perfect because of that. It is advisable to seek guidance from a qualified climbing coach or trainer to ensure proper form and progression when moving to bodyweight and added weight hangs.

How often should the routine be performed?

The frequency of performing the No-Hang Hangboarding Routine depends on individual training goals, experience level, and recovery capacity. As a general guideline, it is recommended to start with 2-3 sessions per week, allowing for at least one rest day between sessions. Over time, climbers can increase the frequency if their recovery allows for it. It is essential to listen to your body and adjust the frequency based on your personal needs.

Are additional exercises necessary?

While Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine is highly effective for developing finger strength, it is also important to incorporate other exercises into your training regimen. Climbing-specific exercises, strength training, and flexibility work are essential for overall performance gains and injury prevention. A well-rounded training program that includes a variety of exercises will ensure balanced muscle development and enhance overall climbing abilities. This routine like any other hangboarding method will not make you a great climber if you don’t climb as well!


Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine is a revolutionary approach to strengthening finger and grip strength in climbers. With its emphasis on safety, proper form, and progressive overload, the routine offers a targeted and effective way to improve climbing performance while reducing the risk of injury.

By incorporating the No-Hang Hangboarding Routine into your training program and following the key principles, you can expect to see significant improvements in finger strength, forearm endurance, grip strength, and overall climbing abilities. Remember to listen to your body, prioritize rest and recovery, and maintain a well-rounded training regimen to optimize your performance as a climber.

Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine has garnered praise from climbers worldwide, with testimonials highlighting its effectiveness and long-term impact. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced climber, consider giving this routine a try and experience the benefits firsthand. Always consult with a qualified climbing coach or trainer before starting any new training program to ensure safety and proper progression.

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