hardest boulders in the world Burden of dreams, alphane, return of the sleepwalker, Megatron

Hardest boulders – the most difficult boulders in the world

Of all the climbing disciplines bouldering stands as a testament to the raw power, intricate technique, and mental fortitude required to conquer climbing’s most formidable challenges. This article lists the hardest problems in bouldering, where climbers push the boundaries of human capability to solve the hardest boulder problems on the planet. These problems, often graded V15 and above, are not just routes on a rock; they are puzzles that intertwine physical strength, precise movement, and mental resilience.

The Burden Of Dreams V17/9a

The Burden of Dreams is a notoriously challenging boulder problem located in the Lappnor area of Helsinki, Finland. First ascent was made by Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival in 2016.

The Burden of Dreams involves a series of incredibly difficult moves that require a high degree of strength, technique, and precision. The crux move is a long dynamic jump from two tiny crimps to a sloping top-out hold, which requires exceptional power and accuracy.

Since its first ascent by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016, a handful of climbers have tried the The Burden of Dreams, but only Will Bosi has been successful (as of may 2023). Will Bosi made the second ascent in 2023 after training on the route with a 3D printed replica in England and then projecting the route in Finland for several weeks.

Alphane V17/9a

The Alphane boulder problem is a highly technical and physically demanding route in Switzerland. The route requires a high degree of finger strength, body tension, and precision footwork. The boulder problem is approximately 15 moves long and involves a series of extremely powerful and dynamic moves on small crimps and pockets, culminating in a high, committing top-out.

The Alphane boulder problem is located in the Fountainebleau forest in France and is widely regarded as one of the hardest boulder problems in the world. Its demanding nature and technical difficulty have made it a sought-after challenge for the world’s top climbers, and it remains a significant milestone for boulderers who aspire to push the limits of the sport.

The first ascent of Alphane was done by Shawn Rabatou in 2022 and it has since been climbed by Aidan Roberts, Will Bosi and Simon Lorenzi. All these ascents were in 2022 as well. According to Will Bosi the route felt a bit soft for the grade of 9a as he felt that Honey Badger 8c+ was more a challenge for him. 

Return of the sleepwalker V17/9a

The Return of the Sleepwalker is an addition to the already challenging boulder problem sleepwalker. It is located in Red Rocks, Nevada, USA. The boulder was first climbed by Jimmy Webb in 2019 to get a first ascent of sleepwalker V16/8C+. Daniel Woods made a longer version of the route in 2021 by adding up to 7 more moves and grading the new route to V17/9a.

The boulder problem involves a series of incredibly difficult and technical moves, including a long, tension-filled traverse across the face of the boulder. The crux move of the problem involves a powerful deadpoint to a small edge, requiring exceptional finger strength and precision. The subsequent moves involve navigating a series of small, sharp holds and balance-intensive footwork before committing to a high, exposed top-out.

Daniel Woods’ ascent of The Return of the Sleepwalker was widely regarded as a significant achievement in the climbing community, and it was recognized as one of the hardest boulder problems in the world. The problem’s challenging nature, technical difficulty, and exposed finish have made it a sought-after challenge for boulderers who aspire to push the limits of the sport.

Megatron V17/9a

Megatron is a sit start version of Tron (8b+, FA by Daniel Woods in 2020). Megatron was first climbed by Shawn Raboutou in 2022. 

Share this post

You might also be interested in:

Janja Garnbret
Climbing News

Janja Garnbret The Most Dominant Competition Climber In The World

anja Garnbret, born on March 12, 1999, in Slovenj Gradec, Slovenia, is a world-renowned professional rock climber known for her extraordinary achievements in competitive climbing and significant accomplishments in outdoor climbing. Garnbret has established herself as one of the most dominant climbers in the history of the sport, showcasing exceptional talent, versatility, and dedication across various climbing disciplines, including lead climbing, bouldering, and combined events.

Read More »
Free training with Hazel Findlay

Learn how to train your mind and get the
FREE Performance blueprint