Janja Garnbret

Janja Garnbret The Most Dominant Competition Climber In The World

Janja Garnbret, born on March 12, 1999, in Slovenj Gradec, Slovenia, is a world-renowned professional rock climber known for her extraordinary achievements in competitive climbing and significant accomplishments in outdoor climbing. Garnbret has established herself as one of the most dominant climbers in the history of the sport, showcasing exceptional talent, versatility, and dedication across various climbing disciplines, including lead climbing, bouldering, and combined events.

Competitive Climbing Achievements

Janja Garnbret’s competitive climbing career is marked by an impressive collection of medals and titles from the world’s most prestigious climbing competitions, making her one of the most decorated athletes in the sport.

World Championships Achievements

  • 2016 Paris: Gold in Lead
  • 2018 Innsbruck: Gold in Bouldering and Combined, Silver in Lead
  • 2019 Hachioji: Gold in Bouldering, Lead, and Combined
  • 2021 Moscow: Gold in Bouldering and Lead

World Cup Achievements

  • Overall World Cup Titles:
    • Bouldering: 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
    • Lead: 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
  • Individual World Cup Wins: As of April 2023, Garnbret has won over 30 individual World Cup events across bouldering and lead disciplines.

Olympic Games

  • Tokyo 2020: Bronze in Sport Climbing (the event was held in 2021 due to the COVID-19 pandemic).

European Championships

  • 2017: Gold in Lead
  • 2020: Gold in Bouldering

Outdoor Climbing Achievements

While specific routes and grades for outdoor climbs are not exhaustively listed here, Janja Garnbret has made significant ascents up to the 9a/9a+ (5.14d/5.15a) difficulty, including notable first female ascents and quick repeats of hard routes. Her outdoor achievements complement her competitive success, showcasing her versatility and skill in both arenas.


  • Avatar (8b/5.13d): Garnbret onsighted “Avatar,” a sport climbing route in Pandora, Croatia. This achievement marked an early indication of her extraordinary talent and potential in outdoor climbing.
  • Miza za šest (8c+/5.14c): She climbed “Miza za šest” at Kotečnik, Slovenia, marking her first ascent of this grade. This climb solidified her status as one of the leading climbers of her generation.


  • La Fabelita (8c/5.14b): Garnbret flashed “La Fabelita” in Santa Linya, Spain, with guidance from Slovenian climber Mina Markovič. Remarkably, she completed the route in less than 15 minutes, showcasing her ability to quickly decipher and execute complex sequences.


  • Seleccio Natural (9a/5.14d): Garnbret achieved a significant milestone by clipping the anchor of “Seleccio Natural” in Santa Linya, Spain, her first route graded 9a.
  • La Fabela pa la Enmienda (9a/5.14d): Shortly after her success on “Seleccio Natural,” she climbed her second 9a route, “La Fabela pa la Enmienda,” also in Santa Linya. This accomplishment underscored her growing prowess in high-difficulty sport climbing.

November 2021

  • Fish Eye (8c/5.14b): Garnbret onsighted “Fish Eye” in Oliana, Spain, marking the world’s first-ever female onsight of a consensus 8c sport route. This historic achievement demonstrated her exceptional ability to read and climb routes of high difficulty without prior practice.

March 2022

  • Bügeleisen (8B+/V14): She made the first female ascent of the bouldering problem “Bügeleisen” in Maltatal, Austria. This boulder, graded 8B+, highlights Garnbret’s versatility and skill in bouldering, complementing her sport climbing achievements.

October 2023

  • New Base Line (8B+/V14): In a remarkable display of skill and determination, Garnbret sent “New Base Line,” a legendary bouldering problem in Magic Wood, Switzerland, graded at 8B+/V14. Originally established by Bernd Zangerl, this problem is notorious for its demanding line of tiny crimps, representing a significant challenge even for the world’s elite climbers.

Janja Garnbret’s outdoor climbing achievements reflect her exceptional talent, dedication, and passion for climbing. Although Janja is mostly known for her competition climbing dominance her tick list outdoors is impressive as well. By pushing the boundaries of what is possible in both competitive and outdoor climbing, Garnbret has inspired a new generation of climbers and contributed significantly to the sport’s evolution.


Janja Garnbret’s career is highlighted by her dominance in competitive climbing, with a remarkable collection of gold medals at the World Championships, numerous World Cup victories, and a historic Olympic performance. Her achievements have not only earned her a place among the sport’s all-time greats but have also significantly contributed to the popularity and development of competitive climbing worldwide.

Janja Garnbret in the olympics

What Climbing Gear Does Janja Use?

Being the best competition climber in the world means that Janja needs the best possible gear for her training as well as her competition climbs!

Climbing shoes that Janja Garnbret uses

Janja Garnbret is sponsored by Five Ten, an Adidas-owned company known for its high-performance climbing shoes. She has been seen wearing the Five Ten Hiangle climbing shoes in competitions and during her outdoor climbing projects. The Hiangle is known for its comfort and versatility, offering a good balance between stiffness for edging and sensitivity for gripping small footholds, making it suitable for both indoor and outdoor climbing across various disciplines such as bouldering and lead climbing.

Climbing Harness that Janja Garnbret uses

Janja is also sponsored by Camp and has been using the Camp Flash harness in competitions and in training lately. She was previously sponsored by Petzl and has been using the Petzl Selena harness.

Make sure to check out Janja’s official website here.

Share this post

You might also be interested in:

Free training with Hazel Findlay

Learn how to train your mind and get the
FREE Performance blueprint